Editor's Note: Women Riders Now recommends those who want to learn how to ride a motorcycle enroll in a Motorcycle Safety Foundation training class. The following is a guide to help practice what was taught in the class. Women Riders Now highly discourages practicing these techniques without having first passed the MSF Basic RiderCourse or the Harley-Davidson Riding Academy New Rider Course.
If you can balance a
a bicycle, you can
probably ride a motorcycle.
Hands on the grips, legs around the frame, catching wind with big grins on their freedom-road faces, motorcyclists make riding look easy. As you watch them glide on by, you muse, "I can do that." And you can, once you've mastered some basic skills.
Operating a motorcycle blends the smooth operation of a manual transmission with the balance of riding a bicycle. Both are required to make the bike move. When you were 5, 6 or 7, you made the wheels spin by pedaling. Faster and faster you turned until you gained sufficient speed to stabilize the bike.
Sometimes a mother or dad, big brother or best friend placed a helping hand on the seat or rear fender and ran alongside for balance and moral support. Perhaps a not-so-gentle push propelled you up to speed, down the street, and off those training wheels. Later, if you learned how to work the clutch pedal in a car with a stick shift, you jerked the car forward into gear, and often stalled, while someone sat next to you in the passenger seat.
Not so with a motorcycle. No one is going to sit next to you or run alongside, push or hold you up when you wobble or jerk. There are no training wheels. And pedals don't make the bike go. To set the wheels spinning, you still need a bike, a sense of balance and a bit of speed. But to even begin to make a motorcycle move smoothly, you must get in the zone—the friction zone—and practice the fine art of clutch control.
The friction zone is the small wonder in the big world of motorcycling. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) defines the friction zone as "the area of clutch lever movement that begins where the clutch starts to transmit power to the rear wheel and ends just prior to full clutch engagement."
In short, the friction zone is where the clutch slips and the transmission grips, and partial power is transmitted to the rear wheel. You'll use the friction zone every time you ride. Stop signs? Lights? Slow moving traffic? Changing gears? If you want to avoid a jerky ride, you'll have to find the friction zone.
So, where is the magic friction zone? It's all in the clutch, the lever mounted on the left hand grip. But no one can show you its exact location. The friction zone is something you can't see. You have to feel it.
This rider is on a 2017 BMW G 310 R and using a lot of the friction zone to manage her speed through the curvy roads here.
Try this: With the bike turned off, locate the controls and learn the gearshift pattern. Straddle the bike, kick up the side stand, and find neutral (halfway between first and second gear). Practice operating the controls without looking at them. When you're ready, prepare to start the engine. Use FINE-C, a useful acronym to remind you of the following (something students learn in the Motorcycle Safety Foundation Basic RiderCourse):
uel valve on for carbureted motorcycles
ngine cut-off switch on.
lutch squeezed (Choke open, for a cold engine on a carbureted bike)
Finally, push the electric start button. With the engine running, ease out the clutch. Slowly. Since you started in neutral, you can ease the clutch all the way out and the bike will not move or stall. Now squeeze the clutch fully and shift to first gear by depressing the shift lever down with your left foot.
Time to find the friction zone. Ease out the clutch slowly while easing on the throttle very slowly. Take your time. Count to three. When the wheels begin to move, you've found the friction zone, and partial power is being transmitted to the rear wheel.
To find the friction zone, start with the clutch engaged (pulled in)...
...and slowly ease it out as you twist the throttle.
When the clutch is full disengaged (eased all the way out), you should be engaging the throttle (i.e. going forward) or else the bike will jerk and stall out.
Without sufficient speed to stabilize the motorcycle, you'll balance the bike with your feet. But don't let the Fred Flintstone method move the machine. Let the clutch do the work to pull the bike forward. You can stop the motion by fully squeezing the clutch to disengage power to the rear wheel. Then, rock the bike backward, rest on your heels, and find the friction zone again. Coordinate clutch and throttle use. Avoid dumping or popping the clutch, which jerks and stalls the engine. Remember, any sudden action causes a sudden reaction. Ease the clutch out smoothly. Work the clutch back and forth repeatedly until you are comfortable, capable and confident you can really feel the friction zone.
When you are ready to roll, ease the clutch through the friction zone until fully released to completely engage first gear. Now the bike is rolling under power with minimal throttle. Hands on the grips, legs around the frame, you’re catching some wind with a great big grin. You don’t need anyone to sit or run alongside, push or hold you up. You can do it on your own. You and the friction zone.
About the Author
Susan Rzepka is a MSF RiderCoach who loves to ride, write, and help others who want to do the same. You enjoys riding her Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom.
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